City Guide: Kaua'i

Where to eat on the rustic, rural Hawaiian island.

I resisted writing this one for a long time, not wanting to bring more attention to this small island struggling to maintain its own identity amidst waves of tourism. But who was I kidding–this is a small blog with a small audience; few if any folks are reading these city guides and booking flights immediately. I spent a winter on Kaua’i in 2021, when the island had largely kept Covid at bay entirely, meaning life went on pretty much as normal there. It was odd, wonderful, and surreal–and, it was quiet. Experiences there since have been an adjustment, learning to be at peace with all the other haoles like me who go there, and frankly it’s best that I give these locally run, amazing establishments their due so you can spend your dollars there too.

*some important reading to ground your trip to Kaua’i, or any of the islands, if you’d like: Detours and Aloha Betrayed